Past bars

The Independent




Bar of the week
Publick House

Scott Denne

When you first walk into the Publick House in Brookline the first thing you notice is the lack of decor. That does not mean the place is without charm. It is dimly lit and has the look of a medieval tavern. Almost everything in the place, except for the beer taps, is made of dark wood and small candles scattered throughout provide much of the lighting. The only decorations are the occasional beer poster and adds for Mighty Mighty Bosstones shows that have long since passed. It is a welcome contrast in the age of Applebees and T.G.I. Fridays where flare is king.

But it is unlikely that anyone comes to the Publick House for the ambiance, they come for the beer. The Publick House has one of the most eclectic beer selections in the area. The have 28 microbrews on tap, many of these from New England Breweries, that change often. They have a menu of about 120 unique bottled beers from Belgium, upstate New York, Japan and just about everywhere in between. Whether you’re looking for a 750mL bottle of Thomas Hooker Liberator Doppelbock or something heavier, like a Heavyweight Perkuno's Hammer Imperial Porter. They have something for every beer drinker, even P.B.R. (in a can of course).

The draught microbrews usually stay in the $4-$5 range, but many of the exotic bottled beers cost upwards of $7. No beer at the Publick House is served in a plain pint glass, each one comes with a glass of its own. Many of which are designed by the brewer to bring out the flavor of that particular beer.

The staff is always friendly, but often very busy. They will usually help you choose a beer if you are overwhelmed by the choices, but not always, especially on a busy Friday or Saturday night.

The menu goes well with the theme of the bar. Most of the items on the menu are cooked with or marinated in a different beer from their list, which makes matching the food and drink an easy task. The food is reasonably priced. Entrees run $14-18 and include Old Rasputin Skirt Steak ($18) and Whale's Tale Pale Ale Battered Shrimp Plate ($14). They also have small meals, appetizers and sandwiched which range in price from $9 to $12. The food is much better than the drab atmosphere and the menu on a clipboard would suggest and can rival any restaurant in the neighborhood.

The only downside to the Publick House is that it is no well kept secret. If you want to eat get there early because seating is limited and there is no hostess to help you if the tables are all taken when you get there. It should be avoided on the weekends unless you are content to stand in a crowded room while you drink expensive beer from kreik glasses.

Publick House
1648 Beacon St. (map)
Brookline MA
617.277.2880
http://www.anamcarapublickhouse.com.

Scott Denne can be reached at sdenne@theoysteronline.com

03/01/2006   |   Permalink


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